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    October 05

    魅力苏州之苏州评弹和响油鳝糊--2008年11月1日

          睡了个懒觉,所有的疲乏就随之走掉了。来苏州的第一天,没有我想象的阳光。酒店的房间比较宽敞,有个小套间,放着书桌,桌上放了本《畅游苏州》,这一切好像是份特别的礼物,刚好让我可以在这样一个阴郁的日子里,先从书本上了解一下苏州。上午读完了《畅游苏州》,又仔细的琢磨了“苏州的手绘地图”,苏州之行的大体方案就出炉了。临行时粗略的线条,已经清晰的勾勒出时间和地点。
     
    响油鳝糊:晚上,出门找地方果腹。于是,乘车去了“观前街”。“观前街”很热闹,是条繁华的商业街。这里既有百年老字号,又有如肯德基、麦当劳的舶来品牌。与它平行的小巷里,云集着几家大牌苏州本帮菜馆。我找了家百年老字号的店,店门口的牌子上写着店里被评出的苏州名菜。点了一道“响油鳝糊”,本想着“糊”应是把鳝切得细碎如泥,但菜上来后,发现是切得工整的鳝鱼段,点缀着葱花蒜末。服务员会在上菜时,将一勺热油倒入盘中,发出“嗞嗞啦啦”的声响,我猜想这大约就是“响油”的来历。美味中还有些趣味,这或许就是烹饪的另一种境界吧。
     
    苏州评弹:吃过晚饭,沿着观前街闲逛着。路过“三万昌”茶楼,被茶楼里飘来的苏州评弹所吸引,索性就上楼来喝杯茶。初识苏州评弹是由电影《梅花巾》,哀婉的曲调,叙述着一家人的悲欢离合。自那时起,苏州评弹便增加了我对苏州城的一份向往。如今,坐在茶楼里,品着清茶,苏州评弹带给我的是一场听觉上的饕餮盛宴。时而沉浸在“潇湘雨夜”的凄凉哀婉;时而又有“钗头凤”的离愁别绪;抑或“枫桥夜泊”的高亢激情;还有“太湖美”的悠扬婉转。除却古典戏曲的风韵无限,也有“十五月亮”的时代赞歌。于是,在短短的2个小时中,我领略了苏州评弹的风情万种,并被他深深吸引。
     
    这难道就是苏州之行的开始吗?!它是如此的美妙! 

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